Today started off quite mild, so much so that I was able to have my breakfast with the slide door open looking out at the view of the sea. It was very still too, not something I’ve had much of in Ireland.
I was heading to Doolin today. I’d been advised by my brothers Aunt that they are known for live music there, and that there was a campsite on the coast, which was a short walk from the town. I thought I’d book a night here so I could ensure a good place to kip near the action and also get a guaranteed charge on my appliances. I’d seen that the Cliffs of Moher were near by too, and they’d been recommended as a must see.
Drove through country roads, bout an hour? Passing though coastal areas including Spanish point, with impressive waves and fab sunny weather.
Arrived at 12 and checked into Nagles campsite, very good facilities, and as soon as I could, set off for my hike. It was getting on and I didn’t want to be late back and miss the music. The campsite was about 2km from the start of the walk to the Cliffs, so that added on time. The town of Doolin is very quaint and pretty. It’s quite touristy due to the cliffs but didn’t seem too overrun. The buildings are painted bright colours, and some have fab artwork on them, which seems to be a common thing in Ireland. I needed to get some change for the shower, so popped into the ice cream shop for a whippy, although have to say my regular size was very generous.
The walk to the cliffs starts on a wide stone farm track, steadily ascending, then turns off onto a narrower path that follows the coast, winding along. Throughout the walk there are views back to Doolin; the port where the boats take people on cruises to see the cliffs, or to the Aron Islands; the Aron Islands out to sea; and the cliffs up ahead. There are also pockets along the walk where you see the large rocks jutting out from below where you are walking like large flat platforms. It looks very tempting to go exploring on them, apart from the appearance of powerful waves that constantly crash up onto the edges creating great swells of white foam. The power of the water is hypnotising, but you can understand how you wouldn’t stand a chance if you got swept off the rocks. It makes me think of those who have been dragged out to see and lost their lives, such a terrible way to die.
The path eventually cuts inland as it takes a steep ascent high on top of the cliffs, where it leads on to the vantage point to look out over the Cliffs of Moher. They are very impressive and look quite magical in the misty haze of the sun. The jagged vertical drops of rock tower over the waves below but also provide a home for all the sea birds nesting in the cracks.
I returned to the campsite around 5.30, which gave me time to make dinner then go for a shower before popping to the pub. This was my first shower in a week and was nice enough, although the shower block was quite cold, so once out the shower it was a dash to get dressed. I’m finding having cut my hair really short a god send. A flannel wash in the morning is certainly satisfactory, and it’s only nice to have a shower for the purpose of feeling refreshed, but the convenience of not having to worry about my hair being greasy of a morning, or taking time to do something with it, or it getting in the way, is great. I walked the 2k back to the town to listen to some music, and had already been advised by another camper, who’d I’d talked to in the kitchen block, that the first few pubs were the touristy ones. I popped into the first one to peer in and could see it was full of holiday makers having their dinner. Didn’t look like a place I could slink into the corner of just for a drink and didn’t seem like music was starting any time soon. I pushed on to the other side of town where there seemed to be a few restaurants, which again didn’t suit what I wanted. I continued on and asked two local ladies where I could find some music. They pointed me in the direction of two pubs, both for locals, one doing more traditional music, the other doing more modern. I opted for the traditional music, so went to Mcganns Pub. As I walked in it was already really busy, and also quite dark, I had to take off my glasses to see better. I asked if I could just drink and was pointed in the direction of a bar stool on a slither of bar, one of the only seats left for non-eaters. The music started in 45 mins, so I sat and read and enjoyed the atmosphere. It is obviously a very popular pub and seems to be authentically local. It turns out where I was sitting was perfect, as the musicians started to gather in the corner, where I had a direct eye line for. There were about 5 of them to start with, with a guitar, 2 violins, recorder (or some pipe type instrument) and a banjo type instrument. Later they were joined by a couple more violins and pipes. It was a great session, with a real buzz in the pub. The music really flowed, it’s just incredible how they play so fast from memory. I guess they have been brought up learning the repetitive tunes.